The Forgotten Ancient Cities of Koh Ker and Beng Melea in Cambodia
I've visited Angkor Wat twice before (at sunrise
and sunset) and all the other major temples in Siem Reap. For our third visit,
me and my buddy planned to explore the not-so-famous temples on the
outskirts of the city. And just like before, we’re still captivated on the
great ancient wonders of Cambodia.
Me and my buddy were on the second leg of our
annual two-month summer backpacking trip, Same Same Summer Trip 2017. We've
covered our favorite spots on our first stop in Malaysia with our moms (Melaka,
Kuala Lumpur and Penang) and carried on with the trip as we bid farewell to
them. We flew to Siem Reap and decided to shy away from the usual temple
hopping tours and just enjoyed our four-day stay in the city with no particular
plans in mind.
We specifically wanted a relaxed stay on our
third visit to Siem Reap. Our home in the city, Victoria Angkor Resort &
Spa, was the perfect haven for slackerhood. After a three-day staycation at the
resort, we felt the need to go out and discover some temples that we failed to
visit during our past trips. Apparently, we're not yet tired of temple tours in Siem Reap.
Mr. Lynath (our English speaking guide, our driver and Mr. Vuthy (the owner of Angkor TravelPlus)
We looked for tour options online and found a
reputable tour company that offers a wide range of services in tours and
transportation as well. I connected with them via email and received a response
right away. We opted to get a private car with driver plus an English speaking tour guide for our day trip. My buddy drafted an ideal itinerary for the day which
the company approved of. It included some temples which were a thousand years
older than the famous Angkor Wat.
It was eight in the morning when they picked us
up at the hotel. Our guide, Mr. Lynath, immediately acknowledged us and
introduced himself. He did mention that I may not be able to enter the temples
with the outfit I was wearing. I asked if I could just put a cover-up for my
tank top but he said that the authorities are recently getting stricter on the proper
dress code in visiting temples. I immediately changed into a simple dress with
sleeves after that (no bare shoulders and knees for the ladies).
Koh Ker ($10 each person)
Beng Mealea ($5 each person)
The hot and humid summer morning greeted us on
our way to the van. We asked if we could drop by at a shop that sells local sim
card in which they happily obliged. We were also surprised when they handed us
some cold water which weren't included on the arrangement; such a sweet gesture
from the company.
Ruined temples
I was occupied with Khmer’s everyday life through
my window while my buddy was busy asking Lynath so many things about Siem Reap,
the Kingdom of Cambodia and its people. He couldn’t be happier to get an
instant reply to his queries by no less than a Khmer. We were also accompanied
by the nice owner, Mr. Vuthy, to this trip and we were also inspired by his
humble beginnings in the tourism industry; such a fruitful way to spend the
almost three-hour ride to our destination.
Halfway through the trip, we stopped by on a
rest area where we had a toilet break. The place was also the ticket counter
for visiting Koh Ker and Beng Mealea temples ($10 and $5 each person
respectively). The entrance fees were not included on the arrangement so we
needed to pay it on our own.
There were few guests here compared to Angkor temples
Koh Ker was our first stop. Located in the province of Preah
Vihear, this remote archaeological site is 120 kilometers away from Siem Reap
in northern Cambodia. The 81 sq.km. protected area is filled with numerous
ruined temples and sanctuaries but only a dozen or so are open for tourists
because some of the area on the dense jungle are not fully cleared with
landmines (which were set up by the Khmer Rouge in the late 1970s).
Prasat Thom/Prang
This
former capital of Khmer Empire (928 to 944 A.D.) was once filled with over
10,000 inhabitants according to some inscriptions. The city complex isn’t as
maintained and well-preserved as the other major temples in the country and
stories of looting were identified as well.
Prasat Krahom
We
visited a handful of the remaining structures in the area including; Prasat
Thom/Prang, Prasat Krahom, Prang, Prasat Preah Vihear, and Prasat Neang Khmau
(believed to be a thousand years older than Angkor Wat). Bear in mind that the
thick forest is not yet fully demined so please visit this temple with a legit tour
guide.
Prasat Neang Khmau
Prasat Neang Khmau
We
had a nice time exploring Koh Ker complex with the help of Lynath who answered
all our queries about the said ancient city.
We
were famished as we concluded our first visit and had a lunch feast of local
Khmer dishes on an eatery right outside the temple complex. It was a fun time
to chitchat once again with Vuthy and Lynath as we got to acquaint ourselves
with the Khmer way of life.
Beng Mealea
Our
second and final stop for the day was Beng
Mealea. Located 40 kilometers away from Siem Reap, this temple is situated
between Angkor Wat and Koh Ker along the ancient royal highway.
Warped temple ruins
Old school tunnel
Hindu and
Buddhist motifs and images are found on the ruined parts of the temple which is
mostly covered with trees and limbs that have already warped some parts of it.
Indiana Jones vibe
Very instagrammable
Me
and my buddy went on our separate ways as we surveyed each and every part of
Beng Mealea; getting lost on this ancient wonder that was once filled with grandeur
and splendor. We were literally walking through the pages of history books as
Lynath would follow me or my buddy as he enlightened us on the importance of
this temple during the ancient times.
I really love Beng Mealea because of the serene environment
Crumbled. Warped. Ruined.
The
extensive landmines on these areas in the early days prevented visitors to go
beyond the Angkor Complex in Siem Reap. Beng Mealea’s untouched and unexplored
charm (and its relatively inexpensive entrance fee) makes it more attractive to
those who wanted to check out all the ancient cities in Cambodia; a truly
worthwhile visit.
Never-ending
stories about the similarities and differences between Cambodia and the
Philippines echoed through the van as we journeyed back to Siem Reap. It was a
lovely day as we got to discover the rather forgotten ancient cities in
Cambodia. Much more than the magnificent temples, I loved how we were able to walk
through the Khmer lives in the company of Lynath and Vuthy. And when I go back
to the memories I have of Koh Ker and Beng Mealea, the fun times we shared with
them will always be the best one.
I think we went here almost ten yrs ago un pala pangalan nyan. Maganda nga dyan. Very nice pictures po.
ReplyDeleteThanks Julius! Temple hopping tours in Siem Reap is really nice :)
Deletehi mam carla :) need ba talaga ng tour guide sa beng mealea?
DeleteNot really. Pero siyempre mas maganda yung nalalaman mo yung history and all :)
Delete